24 November 2017 - SurfRave Beta - all the best of the surfing life. Great pix, great videos. All about boards and other equipment. The best of the waves, the rides, and stories about the stars which make surfing so great - the surfer guys and gals.
Nothing gets better than this - the comings and goings of a person Born to Surf - and surf he did, all over the world!
Starting out in the 1950's in Southern California, his family moved to Hawaii were he competed with the natives to learn the ropes. Wave after wave, ride after ride, spot after spot are described in gripping detail. William Finnegan travelled from the South Sea islands to Australia, Indonesia, Africa, San Francisco, islands off the shores of Portugal. Journey from the simple times of the early 1950's, through the turbulant '60s, the wild '70s, the drug-filled '80s, '90s, 00's....
Not to be missed - if you have even a mild interest in surfing, you'll get a huge amount of insight from this book - into surfing, and into life.. And you can drool at how someone's life was not a life, but a continual rocking adventure, with all of what goes with that: risk, danger, awe, thrills, disappointment, fulfillment.
Do yourself a favor and read this book!
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**
“Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.” —Sports Illustrated
Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading ListBarbarian Days!!
I miss the Bay Area surf...